Furniture finishes decide how a piece looks, feels, lasts, and cleans. The right choice depends on wood species, expected wear, budget, application method, and the look you want. In this guide, we explain the Top 10 Furniture Surface Finishes and Coatings in simple language for students, makers, and professionals. You will learn what each finish is, where it shines, and how it is applied. We also cover durability, repairability, and sustainability so you can match the finish to the job. Read this overview to compare options quickly, avoid common mistakes, and select finishes with confidence.
#1 Water based polyurethane
Water based polyurethane gives a clear, low odor protective film that resists scratches, water rings, and household chemicals. It dries fast, which speeds production and reduces dust nibs. Clarity helps light woods stay bright without the amber tone that oil causes. Spray or brush application works, and sanding between coats improves smoothness. Most products reach full hardness within a week, yet feel usable much sooner. Choose matte, satin, or gloss to match the design. It cleans with water and has low volatile emissions, which supports safer workshops and indoor air quality.
#2 Oil based polyurethane
Oil based polyurethane builds a tough, flexible film with excellent abrasion and moisture resistance. It adds a warm amber color that enriches oak, walnut, and cherry. Longer open time levels brush marks, which suits hand application on large panels. Curing is slower, so allow overnight between coats and provide steady ventilation. The film is more chemical resistant than many waterborne options, which makes it a reliable choice for tabletops and chair arms. Use thin coats to reduce drips and sags, and sand lightly between coats for bond. Dispose of oil soaked rags safely.
#3 Nitrocellulose lacquer
Nitrocellulose lacquer produces a classic furniture look with excellent clarity and a silky feel. It burns in between coats, so each layer melts into the last and repairs blend almost invisibly. Fast solvent evaporation allows many coats in one day, which creates a refined finish on cabinets and instruments. Downsides include lower chemical and heat resistance compared with catalyzed systems. Proper spray equipment and strong ventilation are essential for safety and dust control. Use sanding sealer to prevent grain raise and to speed build. Final rubbing with compounds yields a uniform sheen and touch.
#4 Conversion varnish
Conversion varnish is a catalyzed alkyd and amino resin system known for high build, fast cure, and exceptional chemical resistance. It is a shop favorite for kitchen tables, hospitality furniture, and built ins that face spills and cleaners. A measured catalyst is added before spraying, and pot life is limited, so planning matters. Films are more rigid than polyurethane, yet they resist print from plasticizers and hold gloss well. Sanding sealer and careful film thickness prevent cracking. Because solvents are strong, use proper protective gear, filtration, and controlled conditions to achieve professional results.
#5 UV cured coating
UV cured finishes polymerize under ultraviolet light in seconds, which delivers instant handling and a very hard surface. Factories love the speed, line efficiency, and low emissions because most formulas are one hundred percent solids. The cured film resists abrasion and many chemicals, so it works well on desks and shelving. Because cure requires special lamps and controlled application, this path suits scaled production rather than small shops. Repair is possible using compatible UV gels or by sanding and applying a different topcoat. When color control matters, add toner layers before final cure.
#6 Shellac
Shellac is a fast drying, alcohol based resin that delivers unmatched warmth, chatoyance, and color control. It is an excellent sealer for difficult woods and a barrier coat between incompatible layers. Flake shellac mixed fresh in alcohol gives the best clarity and adhesion. While shellac is not very resistant to heat or alcohol, it excels in repairability and beauty, especially for period pieces and drawer interiors. French polishing builds a deep gloss using many thin applications and gentle abrasion. You can also topcoat shellac with lacquer or varnish for improved protection where needed.
#7 Hardwax oil
Hardwax oil combines natural oils that penetrate with hard waxes that cure on the surface, leaving a low sheen, tactile feel. It highlights grain without a plastic look and is pleasant to touch on tables and chairs. Application is simple, with thin coats wiped or buffed, followed by careful curing. Spot repair is easy because new material bonds without visible edges. The tradeoff is moderate chemical resistance and a need for periodic maintenance in busy spaces. Choose white, natural, or tinted versions to adjust color. Follow manufacturer cure times before placing objects or stacking.
#8 Penetrating oil finish
Penetrating oils such as polymerized tung or linseed oil soak into fibers and harden, enhancing figure and depth while leaving a natural feel. Multiple thin applications with long drying times are required for durability. These oils are not as protective as film finishes, but they move with the wood and are simple to renew without stripping. They suit low wear furniture like frames, legs, and decorative panels. For higher wear, many makers topcoat with wax or a wiping varnish blend. Use clean rags and safe storage to prevent heat build within oily waste.
#9 Wax
Wax provides a soft sheen and a pleasant hand, either as a stand alone low protection finish or as a final topcoat over shellac, oil, or lacquer. Paste wax fills minor scratches and reduces friction on drawers and table leaves. It is easy to apply and buff, and it resists fingerprints fairly well. Wax is not water or heat resistant, so it is best for accent pieces, interiors, and maintenance. For a durable system, use wax only as the last layer, and avoid placing new coatings over it. Keep dust free conditions during buffing.
#10 Epoxy resin coating
Epoxy resin forms a thick, glass like surface that seals pores and protects against water and many chemicals. It excels on bar tops, river tables, and accent furniture where depth and clarity add drama. Accurate resin and hardener ratios and careful temperature control guard against sticky cure and bubbles. Because epoxy is rigid, it can crack if the wood moves, so allow for seasonal change and consider flexible underlayers. The cured surface resists abrasion but can scratch, so follow with a polish schedule or a thin protective topcoat. Avoid direct sunlight without UV additives.